The cute Chihuahua belongs to Erin Silvers. One block down the boulevard I meet “Missy” - a pretty little lady that flirts with everyone. I order a fish sandwich with sweet potato fries from the bearded barman, who has a genuine smile. The motel is a popular spot to have brunch with a mimosa or two. Their website says it best: “Due to the fun nature of Playland Motel, during the summer months it is a loud environment, please be mindful of this when choosing to stay with us.” Today, the restaurant is packed.
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In case the urban escape should last a few days longer, it offers charming and simple rooms to rent. I reach the Playland Motel on the Rockaway Beach Boulevard at 97th Street. This vibe of sudden surprise will follow you wherever you go - even to the beach. Accidentally running into “pop-up events” like these is what makes New York, well, New York: It can happen any time and all the time. He and his girlfriend Carolin, also an artist, just finished sewing the colorful creatures last night. His name is Karl and he came up with the idea a few months ago. “ It is a wind parade,” explains one of the guys, taming a kite. The mighty wind installations mingle with kites and other toys like windmills and balloons. I keep going and come across a group of people who set up an area of colorful wind streamers and wind hoses at the beach. What’s that additional sound? A few youngsters are showing off impressive tricks in the skate park across the boardwalk. The ocean and the wind perfectly accompany his melodies. I pass a musician who is facing the sea and deeply focused on playing his cello. Especially in summer, coming all the way from Brooklyn or Manhattan by bike is a popular alternative to the subway.
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And when the heat hits New York, you want to wear as little as possible - and preferably be precisely here: At the beach. The warm wet suits will soon stay in the box, since temperatures are rising. “Waves are high it’s actually a bit tricky today, but they’re doing good,” Mike says.
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Today Coach Mike is instructing a small group of beginners, city-dwellers like me by the looks of it.Įverybody seems in a pretty good mood, even though the water is rough. Year-round you will most likely find hardcore surfers here - and a few brave students taking their surf lessons with the Locals Surf School. But the weather doesn’t matter a few streets down at Beach 67th Street. Instead I head to the beach as large clouds start covering the sun. I’m tempted to get one of the famous fish tacos from the Rockaway Taco, who relocated here from the beach boardwalk. I chat and relax in a hammock in the colorful surf-style backyard, having a drink. If you are at the club, make sure to ask people about the story - it’s worth every second of your time.
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As a community institution, it proved its high value after Hurricane Sandy: The club organized one of the biggest relief actions in the area, drawing large crowds of volunteers from the city. Now an event space that supports local artists and musicians, it features an outdoor BBQ where locals mingle with the young crowds coming from Brooklyn. The club originated as a local hangout for surfers to store their boards. I leave the train at Beach 90th Street, just a few steps away from the legendary Rockaway Beach Surf Club. Each subway stop from now on is within walking distance of the beach. I catch a last glimpse of the blurry Manhattan skyline in the distance. The subway goes straight to the sea breeze, open water and sand on your feet.įorty-five minutes in, the air starts to smell salty: The subway runs along a slightly elevated bridge through the Jamaica Bay, a vast body of water that seems unreal after the density of the city. I won’t be heading into Manhattan from Brooklyn today, but in the opposite direction: The Rockaways are part of the borough of Queens in New York City - and mostly a beach. The sun is shining, spring is in the air and my personal summer season started a few minutes ago with the swipe of my subway card.